Three days in Kyoto: a first-timer's plan

Day 1 — Fushimi Inari and the east side

Start at Fushimi Inari Taisha as early as you can: the shrine never closes, and the tunnels of vermilion torii are near-empty around sunrise. The full loop to the summit of Mount Inari takes two to three hours; most people turn back at the Yotsutsuji crossroads, about halfway, which has a view over the city.

Take the train back north to Sanjūsangen-dō, a long wooden hall holding 1,001 statues of the goddess of mercy, then walk up to Kiyomizu-dera, whose wooden stage hangs over the hillside. From there, the stone-paved slopes of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka lead down past the Yasaka Pagoda to Yasaka Shrine and the old streets of Gion.

Gion is at its best at dusk. Enjoy the lanes, but don't photograph geiko and maiko without asking, and respect the signs in the private alleys, which warn that walking in is not allowed and can be fined.

Day 2 — Arashiyama and the Golden Pavilion

Arashiyama, in the west, is another place that rewards an early alarm: the bamboo grove is quiet before eight and packed by ten. Right beside it, the garden of Tenryū-ji uses the mountains behind as part of its view. Cross the river to climb (about twenty minutes) to Iwatayama Monkey Park, where you look down over the whole city while macaques wander around you.

In the afternoon, head to the north-west for Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion reflected in its pond, and Ryōan-ji, home of the most famous rock garden in Japan — fifteen stones arranged so that you can never see all of them at once. Both are a short bus or taxi ride from each other.

Day 3 — Nijō Castle, Nishiki Market and Okazaki

Nijō Castle was the shoguns' residence in Kyoto; its corridors have "nightingale floors" that chirp underfoot, built so no one could creep in unheard. From there it is a short ride to Nishiki Market, a narrow covered street of pickles, tofu, sweets and grilled seafood — eat at the stall where you buy, as walking while eating is frowned upon here.

Spend the afternoon in Okazaki: Heian Shrine's huge torii and gardens, then the Philosopher's Path, a canal-side walk that runs north to Ginkaku-ji. End with dinner in Pontochō, the lantern-lit alley along the Kamo River.

Getting around and when to go

Kyoto's buses are slow and often full; combine the two subway lines, the JR and private railways with walking, and use a taxi for the short hops between temples when you are a few people. Suica, Pasmo and ICOCA cards work on trains and buses. The old bus-only day pass is gone, but a subway-and-bus day pass is still sold.

Late March to early April (cherry blossoms) and mid to late November (autumn leaves) are the most beautiful and the most crowded weeks; book rooms early. Summer is hot and humid — July brings the Gion Matsuri festival — and winter is cold but blissfully quiet. Most temples close around 4:30 to 5 pm, so plan the afternoons accordingly.

How we chose these places

Every place linked in this plan ranks near the top of our Kyoto ranking, which combines Google ratings with the number of reviews so that a handful of perfect scores can't outrank thousands of good ones. Check the opening hours on each place's page before you go — they change with the seasons.